MARK & THE LONDON LADS ~ BOYSIE BONDING

Somewhat later than I had hoped I now write to share the lovely day I we had on the Spey on Saturday April 21^st with 12 great young gentlemen from London.

Most refer to them as Stag or Hen Parties. At Spirit of the Spey we tend to call them ‘Boysie Bondings’ or ‘Girlie Gatherings’. So this was young Mark’s pre-nuptial Boysie Bonding ~ a weekend filled with activity but with interludes of R&R and also time factored to eat nice food and sip the odd (mainly brown ~ how odd is that!?) ‘Lemonade’ or three!

The lads had travelled up to Aviemore from Kings Cross overnight Thursday on the sleeper-train. Upon arrival in Aviemore on Friday morning, they were picked up at Aviemore station and promptly whisked off by people-carrier on a visit to lovely Cragganmore Distillery, an experience thoroughly enjoyed by all.

The group of lads then returned to their comfortable accommodation ~ at a fine large house, ‘The Pines’, on the outskirts of Grantown-on-Spey. After settling in and a meal in the town, the group were treated to a tutored whisky-tasting session at The Pines. Six or eight drams (~ no one was quite sure of the exact number!) were sampled but most agreed that of the whiskies nosed and tasted throughout the evening, one Aberlour expression stood out as a favourite.

Shortly after nine o’clock the minibus picked up the group and delivered them to the riverbank at a point just downstream of Advie Bridge. Following issue of technical kit and brief skills input and safety briefing the group set off downstream.

The majestic Spey was particularly majestic as, following the massive snow melt and rain causing widespread throughout Strathspey earlier in the week, the water-levels were still 4 feet above normal summer levels ~ so to use the technical term ~ ‘stonking down’.

Some of the lads having previously been on the Ardeche in France, upon arrival, considered themselves competent paddlers but Lady Spey was keen to prove she was of a more playful, indeed devilish nature than any French ‘tourist river’. Realising that the skills taught on the shore were to be useful in getting them to their egress point and also heighten their enjoyment of the day, the boys all buckled down, honed their paddling techniques and team work to cope very well with the fast flowing currents. There were only three capsizes in the entire day and two these occurred by the riverbank ~ once when two lads were getting in and once again when the same lads were getting out of their canoe!

The weather on the day was not fantastic but, although overcast, the day was mainly dry and Lady Spey was, as always, looking radiant, at this time, in her early spring cloak, with a fresh green on the trees as buds start to swell prior to their bursting open in the next series of warm days. (Sadly we are still waiting!)

Our picture canvas was back-dropped by still snow lying white on the higher hills but the boys stayed warm togged up in their fleeces and waterproof shells. Mark (the groom to be) got off fairly lightly in terms of ‘clothing’ and paddled dressed by his ‘friends’ in a warm, woolly top and football scarf, dashing black tights and lovely kilt. 

We had our tasty picnic-lunch just downstream of the infamous ‘Washing Machine’ rapid ~ which was fairly high and towards being washed-out. However the lads coped well with the heavier water. After lunch the boys played ‘Contact-Sports/Boysie Games’              

Likewise at the more technical Knockando Rapid, after a blether with Knockando senior ghillie, Sandy Smith the lads all came through the white water with big grins on their faces. (pic 048)

Dippers, wagtails and herons kept up company throughout the day. Because the water levels were high, fishing was not very good, thus many of the fishing guests had gone home and we saw very few anglers on our journey. (pic 055)

Very soon we were passing the site of the long-since mothballed

Imperial Distillery ~ now demolished to make way for the brand new state-of-the-art distillery to be built by Chivas Bros. Then we travelled round the bend to view the attractive steel construction of Carron Bridge ~ once carrying, side by side the road and the Speyside railway line.

Next bridge is the pretty Victorian pedestrian, Penny Bridge at Aberlour ~ built by James Fleming ~ founder of Aberlour distillery to benefit all resident of the area ~ except, that is, the previous ferryman! From this point of the river, one can view up ahead the modern bonded-warehouses of world-renowned The Macallan.

Then to our egress point by Thomas Telford’s lovely Bridge by Craigellachie. All the boys were on a high following their Spey Experience which was only made complete when they sampled a dram of some of Dufftown’s best ~ on this occasion a Balvenie Doublewood 12 yo.

The group were scooped-up and taken back to The Pines to freshen up and prepare for a delicious 5 course dinner prepared by local ‘master-chef’ Christina Blakeney, during and after which I understand the boys greatly aided the well-being of the wines and spirits industry.

After a leisurely start to Sunday, the lads took in some fresh Grantown air and at the appointed time were driven back to Aviemore station for their return overnight to the Big Smoke ~ something of a contrast to their stay in Speyside.

Thanks to Jamie and Joe for setting up this Boysie Bonding weekend ~ enjoyed by all associated with it. This was a weekend of variety which will be remembered and spoken about for years to come. I wish Mark and his bride every happiness in their future together; they certain have a lovely group of ‘Boysie friends’surrounding them.

Thank you for taking the time to read this blog, if you are interested in Open Canoeing on the majestic River Spey, please make contact with Dave Craig of Spirit of the Spey to have a no-obligation chat.  Spey journeys can be from 1 day improver course to a 5 day Spey descent.

Whisky Writers' Spey Journey - Part 1

Last week I had the pleasure of sharing the majestic Spey with a charming group of enthusiastic whisky writers. The group included London-based Alwynne Gwilt (@themisswhisky); from Falkirk, Nicola Young (@thewhiskyboys) and writing for the Scottish Malt Whisky Society magazine 'Unfiltered' ~ Fiona Russell (@fionaoutdoors). 

Also, taking part in this special journey, providing great support and depth of malt-whisky knowledge to the venture was The Balvenie UK Ambassador, Andrew Forrester (@balvenienotes). Andrew and I have worked together for some time now and he has accompanied me on the river on previous media trips. (Indeed Andrew’s own Stag Weekend in the autumn of 2011 was a ‘spiritual’ canoe journey on the Spey!)

Some travelling by train and others by road the writers’ group gathered in Speyside on the afternoon of Tuesday 9th April at our Victorian home The Beeches, here in Newtonmore. On the first evening the group were treated to a sumptuous ‘whisky-dinner’ which included ‘Fiddich Prawns’ and Shetland Salmon in a Balvenie cream-sauce. Then, sitting in front of a roaring log fire the writers were treated to a full, unabridged Andrew Forrester Balvenie tasting ~ delivered, as always with an obvious passion for the handcrafted expressions being explored and savoured by those present.

The week previous had produced in Scotland some record breaking high temperatures and I had hoped the writer's group could experience the lovely Spey in stunning sunshine, with the new voyageurs perhaps wearing shorts and t-shirts. However, this was not to be the case. Temperatures dropped, snow fell and, on our first morning,~ canoes and all kit loaded everyone was padded up in cosy fleeces as we headed towards our starting point at Knockando, in the shadow of the ghostly buildings of the presently deserted, soon to reopen, Tamdhu distillery.

Canoes unloaded and carried to the riverside, as we packed into the boats the food barrel and dry-bags for personal kit, Lady Spey smiled warmly as the clouds cleared and we were bathed in spring sunshine for at least half an hour. The brightness continued as we slipped our canoes into the clear Spey waters and stayed with us through the iconic Knockando fishing pools including Slioch, Vrennan, Island Rory and Craigsteel. The water levels were fairly low for the time of, meaning that a great many large stones were peeping above the water’s surface, requiring paddlers to be vigilant and react quickly to avoid striking the rocks. However, now on the water, with a pot-pourri of basic strokes learned, even those that had not canoed previously were becoming masters of their craft and any initial apprehensions had dissipated. 

The group weathered well the turbulent fast water if the exciting rapid oddly named ‘millionaires’. Next major feature high on the bank river left, glowering down upon Lady Spey is the austere form of Imperial distillery, mothballed several years ago and its derelict brick buildings giving the impression of an urban Victorian factory, even workhouse rather than a rural Highland distillery. However, the dower demeanour of the Imperial brick facade is soon forgotten as we round the next bend to be confronted by the fine steel spanning arches of the very attractive Carron Bridge. Once carrying the main road and also the Speyside railway – a major transport artery savagely slashed by Dr Beaching in the 1960’s – this fine bridge still carries the road but now instead of trucks laden with whisky, cattle, barley, even passengers its subsidiary roe is to offer walkers an elevated view of the majestic Spey as she flows swiftly below. The buildings hidden from the river at this time of year with the trees having no leaves one can sometimes see wisps of steam and smell the aroma emanating from the dark grains production unit attached to Diageo’s Dalluaine distillery. Along with a handful of other such processing plants, draff the spent husks of the barley taken from eh mashtuns and pot ale, the slurry draw from the bottom of the still are mixed together and formed into cattle feed – very little is wasted in eth production of the golden elixir we call whisky.  

With mysterious Carron House nestled above her fine lawns river right, my groups are always impressed by the fairytale like appearance of Laggan House standing proudly on its elevated position river left. Very soon we are in view of the picturesque Victoria Bridge which heralds our approach to Aberlour. On the hills beyond we can see the modern warehouses of The Macallan ~ looking rather more like James Bond installations, than whisky bonds!

A little further downstream, with the fine Victorian white-washed elegance of the Craigellachie Hotel ~ our home for that night, my paddlers are enraptured by the attractive span and castellated towers of Thomas Telford’s brilliantly engineered bridge. All this ~ and it’s only lunchtime on day one!

Part 2 will be posted soon .....

Latest news from our Spey Descent

Little overcast at my  favourite lunch riverside lunch spot at Knockando. Few midges around. However I am finding the new product Smidge very effective yet kind to skin - www.midgeforecast.co.uk