There have been no blogs for quite a while from Spirit of
the Spey. Life got particularly hectic mid-summer. I was busy in the river and
in late August my wife Jude and I prepared for a trip of a lifetime ~ a safari
holiday in Kenya ~ quite superb! No amount of preparation can have one fully
ready for the magnitude of the Masia Mara, the lush loveliness of Lakes Navasha
and Nukurra or the array of awesome animals appearing so relaxed, even whilst in
close proximity of our open-topped Land Rover.
The Mara River fairly moved along past the area of our
luxury tented accommodation at the most excellent Little Governor’s Camp. I did
think it would make for a great for an African-branch of Spirit of the Spey.
However, crudely disguised as large rocks there were some obvious, serious
hazards moving around on or just below the surface of the water, which could
have proven to be a little tricky indeed a danger for canoeing clients!!
Having to return to the UK on damp, windy days in the
closing part of Sept., following such an awesome African Adventure, one might
have concerns that life would be much less interesting, indeed positively dull
back here in Scotland. However, for me this was not to be the case. I had to
sort out canoes and kit for and could look forward to my next Spey Journey with
ten great guys, due to arrive at The Beeches on the Friday evening.
From the Beeches we travelled on the Saturday morning to our
start-point just downstream from Advie Bridge. Slight hiccup en route with our
minibus but whilst the transport technicalities were being dealt with, much to
the amazement and entertainment of those in passing traffic, the lads and I ran
through a few ‘land-drills’ including stroke practice, complete with paddles in
hand!
River-levels were reasonably high and once launched we were
soon heading downstream through Tulchan Estate, the lads gaining directional
stability very quickly, having retained quite a bit of skills knowledge from
their ‘roadside class-room’.
This was the last day of the 2012 fishing season and I had
rather expected to see a great many anglers making the most of their last
casting opportunities. Whilst still travelling through Tulchan Estate the first
of the few folks we met along the river was the very helpful ghillie Robert
Mitchell. Robert confirmed for us that many fishing clients had already headed
home. As predicted by Robert, for the duration of our trip we came across only
a handful of ghillies, with in some cases, only their friends and/or family
members making the best of the last few hours as guests of estate proprietors.
Thus, with no fishing on Sundays we did not have to zigzag our way past the
normal numbers of anglers.
First significant landmark on our journey was the very
substantial bridge close to the disused Ballindalloch Station. Erected in 1864
by a Dundee firm, this sturdy old rail bridge, with its lattice-work steel
sides, stopped proudly carrying passenger and freight trains following the
savage Beeching cuts of the 1960’s. This rail-line acted as a life-supporting
artery for the people and industries Speyside ~ particularly the distillers and
farming communities ~ with trucks carrying coal, barley, livestock and many
hogsheads of whisky. This bridge and disused rail route now, at least in part,
forms the part of the Speyside Way long distance route. (The most picturesque
section of the Speyside Way and certainly the part closest to the Spey is
between Ballindalloch and Craigellachie.)
The lads got and thoroughly enjoyed their first taste of
choppy water just downstream of where the River Avon shares its waters,
gathered high in the Grampian Mountains, with the Spey. Some baling was
required opposite the pretty Ballindalloch estate fishing hut by the Rock Pool.
More boat emptying was then needed after the Blacksboat
rapid, aptly named the ‘Washing Machine’. This turbulent but fun, air-bubble
filled, fast water chute occurs where the river suddenly reduces in width from
around 100 to about 40 metres across, forcing the waters through this shingle
sided channel. Two of the lads including Gregor the group organiser decided,
once through the worst of the turbulence, to conduct an impromptu underwater
study by turning their canoe upside down. However, they were soon safely ashore
and having provided much entertainment for their paddling colleagues.
Our journey continued on past the disused Blacksboat
Station, recently refurbished ~ complete with purpose built bat-house erected
as a planning requirement to relocate the bats ‘evicted’ from their roof
residence during the platform building
renovation. On under Marypark Bridge which replaced the ferry previously
operated by Mr Black ~ hence the name ‘Blacksboat’.
Having encountered no fishers on Ballindalloch Estate we
moved on downstream into Knockando Estate. Once into the area of Greenbank Pool
we met up with Knockando ghillie, Archie looking relaxed and very ably
executing his closing few casts. Archie informed us that Bill Drury, the
regular ghillie on this section, was off to Canada for a bit of fishing and
exhibition fly-casting engagements. Some of these expert casters can place a
fly into jam-jar from around 100 yards! Bill Drury is well known in salmon
fishing circles. You will find products bearing his name in angling supplies
magazines. But Bill found international fame when recently coaching Ewan
McGregor in the finer points of fly-fishing for his role in the film, ‘Salmon
Fishing in the Yemen’.
A little way
down-river, we paddlers came ashore at the hut by Pouches Pool to be greeted by
Knockando senior ghillie, Sandy Smith. As it was the last day of the season and
knowing Sandy enjoys a dram, I produced my little case containing a dozen
nosing glasses and a bottle of golden elixir produced on Speyside. Being a
smart, shiny metal box and because of its similarity to a gun-carrying case, it
has become known as my James ‘Whisky’ Bond case! The lads were very happy to
share a dram and a blether with Sandy, while Ron, the group entertainer regaled
us for about quarter of an hour (at least!) with a fabulous narrative poem
about two trout fishers. Trip Organiser, Gregor McNeish’s well known Dad,
Cameron was recognised by Sandy and they then blethered together for about another
three hours (at least!).
In the slightly more technical waters of the rapid below
Tamdhu distillery another underwater study was completed, this time with two of
our party competing for the Olympic open water swimming distance record. Once
back in the boats we passed the distinctive pagoda of Knockando distillery and
on downstream towards the lovely span of the steel bridge at Carron ~ once
carrying both the road and the Speyside Railway. Just above the Carron Bridge,
looking rather like a Victorian mill, are stark brick walls of Imperial
Distillery, silent now for over 30 years but recently bought by Chivas Bros., will
hopefully soon be back in production. Not too far from but not visible from the
river, is the Diageo’s Dailuaine distillery and dark-grains plant where
distillery leftover products including draft (wet chaff) and pot-ale (dregs
from the bottle of the stills) are reprocessed and mixed with other nutrients
to form cattle-feed pellets.
Once under the beautiful Carron Bridge, just by turreted
Laggan House, we find a silent, lone ghillie drawing lines in the darkening
skies, with the tip of his fishing-rod. Then, for me the very last fisher on
the Spey of the 2012 season is the sociable Willie Mearns, ghillie on Delagyle Estate.
After a brief chat with the ever cheery Willie ~ always offering cups of tea if
I ‘didnae hae sae mony fowk’ ~ we now head towards the picturesque Victorian
‘Penny Bridge’, financed by the kindly James Fleming, once the developer/owner
of Aberlour distillery. Mr Fleming also donated money for the construction and
equipping of the Aberlour cottage hospital.
Between Aberlour and Craigellachie, river left we cannot see but
can smell the aromas of baking shortbread from the world-famous Walkers’
shortbread family, still under the ownership and management of the Walker
family. Whilst on the breast of the hill river left in the diminishing daylight
we can still clearly see the modern bonded warehouses of The Macallan. By now,
one night before being full, a beautiful moon has risen above the trees to
the east and helps guide us to our home for the night, the majestic Victorian
Craigellachie Hotel, complete with its world-renowned whisky bar. 
Following a good night’s rest in the comfort of the hotel
our little group makes its way back to where we left our boats on the bank under
the shadow of the wonderful Thomas Telford designed bridge, complete with
castellated end-towers and once carrying the main road north by Craigellachie. 
Although the day began still a little grey and overcast,
once past the confluence of the famous Fiddich and on through Arndilly Estates
the sky begins to clear and as we reach the distillery-rich town of Rothes we
are blessed with beautiful, blue skies. 
Approximately four miles of riparian/fishing rights, known
as Rothes and Aitkenways were sold on this part the Spey for a reputed six
million pounds ~ not the land just the rights to let the fishing. A days
fishing here will come in at around an average of £600 pp ~ just for the
fishing. (By the way I can provide a full trip on the river, with all food and
accommodation for around the same figure ~ with only your bar-bill for you to
pay!)
Still on Delfur Estate, big rock to be careful of as we
approach the steep-sided Otter Hole pool, frequently a tea/coffee of lunch stop
for Spirit of the Spey groups. I ask if anyone needs a comfort or coffee stop.
That does not seem to hold appeal from any of my intrepid travellers but then
there is mention of ‘Balvenie’ and my ‘Whisky Bond’ case. So, bathed in the
sunshine the group enjoy a small mid-day dram ~ some the Doublewood and others
a peated malt. 
As the group chat and enjoy their refreshment, we were
joined by two ladies, who had walked down to the riverside from the main road,
armed with cameras and were on an outing from the Elgin Camera Club. They too
recognised our Mr. McNeish Snr. from the telly ~ had seen him on the ‘Adventure
Show’ just a few nights previous. They too welcomed a wee dram whilst, between
their picture-taking, being charmed by our very own ‘outdoor celebrity
broadcaster’.
By the time we had reached Boat o’ Brig ~ once again site of
a previous ferry, this time close to the mainline rail bridge (or brig ~ hence
Boat o’ Brig) ~ the sun had warmed the air and many layers of clothing were
being cast by the paddlers. Following Delfur Estate we passed through Orton and
into Braewater ~ location of the stunning Redheughs.
These impressive riverside cliffs, although appearing
crumbly are made up of solid compacted glacial deposit which was coloured
terracotta whilst moving through an area of ferrous material as it was dragged
eastward by the retreating ice-sheets.
Approach
Fochabers the wind increases but luckily it is behind us and we make good
progress towards Spey Bay. As the Redheughs disappear the surrounding land is
now flatter ~ raised beaches comprising of mainly rounded shingle.
Once past Fochabers and the (also) world-famous Baxters’
food factory, one can begin to smell the sea. Seagulls and terns call and wheel
above our heads. For a short time as the river takes one final right angle turn
we have to contend with a strong headwind, as we pass the impressive Quarry
Pool ~ another red cliff, this time around 50 feet high but different every
time I pass, as its loose sand and gravels are eroded by the powerful Spey,
especially when in spate condition. Even on this day when we pass, we hear and
see small stones plummeting down the steep slope into the river. 
As the waves of the North Sea come into view my paddlers
realise we have a strong offshore wind, thus there will be no ‘wave-play on
this day. However, all recognise we have arrived at Spey Bay ~ always a very
satisfying feeling after days of sharing the fresh waters provided by the lovely
Lady Spey.
I would extend my thanks to Gregor for setting up this trip
for a great bunch of lads. And, thanks to the lads for their enthusiasm and the
great craic! I know some of you are keen to return to complete a full Classic
Spey Journey from Kincraig to the sea. I look forward to welcoming you back in
the very near future.
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